GBSC 4-Port SCART option This option is extra units I have from my Kickstarter campaign. See last photo for examples (note: the protective layer is still on in the photos). The USB power adapter is not provided however the USB cable is.Īcrylic Case Only Alternatively if you just want the case, rubber feet, standoffs, and screws, that is available too! Just change the drop-down options in the page menus. Options:Įxternal VGA to HDMI Dongle You can add a decent quality VGA to HDMI dongle, which is powered via USB cable to your order. You can have two devices connected the same time but not running at the same time. There is a front facing slide switch to toggle between SCART and DSUB video input. Type A power supply outlet is used in Americas, Thailand, China and Japan thus power outlets from other regions will require a travel adapter or different PSU (not included). This unit strips csync from composite video (when using SCART input). 1x 5V Power Supply (Type A NEMA), by the highly regarded Triad Magnetics.
1x 22uF Nichicon electrolytic cap mod (for versions that require it).1x 100ohm resistor mod between sync and ground.1x 3mm acrylic translucent black top layer.1x 3mm acrylic solid black bottom layer.Unit comes entirely pre-assembled, ready to plug and play. Supports many VGA monitors (CRT, LCD, PDP, Projector, etc.).True digital 24-bit A/D converter for true 16.7-million color conversion.Supports image position control and image zoom control.CGA/EGA/VGA signal auto scan (15KHz, 24KHz, 31KHz).Supports CGA/EGA/VGA/YUV Component Signal Input.Ability to balance the amplitude of the three primary color signals - R, G, B.This system keeps all the base qualities of the gbs8200: You can learn about the gbs-control project on GitHub:
This code makes the GBS8200 lagless which is perfect for retro-gaming. This modification adds an ESP8266 wireless module, pre-programmed with the source code written by "ramapcsx2", such that all video settings occur through a web-based interface. The Clockgen modifications correct minor screen tearing that some people have encountered in specific system configurations.
Here’s the POT’s I tweaked, but YouTube user Billkwando also has a good video about it:Īs an FYI, if you’re using a 240p console on a basic, consumer-grade CRT, you won’t see a big difference between RGB (or component) and S-Video…and it’s certainly not as drastic a difference as seen on high-end displays. I didn’t have as good results with the clone’s though I had to tweak the tuning POT’s before it looked right, which should never be necessary with analog video. It was tested and verified on an oscilloscope and it works with 240p, 480i and 480p.ĬSY-2100 & Clones I tested both a CSY-2100 SCART to Y-U-V converter and a clone system (the clones look similar to the one in the upper left picture, but have the screws on the sides, not front. The original CSY-2100 seemed to work well, however they’re expensive and hard to find. Shinybow SB-2840 This is a great converter, but the recent release of the much cheaper RetroTINK products has bumped it to second in line. These should preserve the signal quality, while allowing an easy way to convert the signals. The “RetroTINK” line of products includes a transcoder that converts between RGB and component. For more info, please check out my upscaler comparison page, as it describes in detail the difference between using RGB to component, vs an upscaler. They might even work well on your flat-screen TV, depending on compatibility. If you’re using a consumer-grade CRT that only has component inputs, these are the best choice. There are a few scenarios where converting RGB to component would be the right choice for your particular setup. This should always result in a zero-lag solution, with video quality varying. To start, I’d like to make the clarification that in this context, converters just change the signal type There’s no scaling or processing of the image. There are many different reasons you’d want to convert a signal and this page will slowly grow to discuss all of them.